NEW ROUTES GALORE. | bowlandclimber

I’m catching up on some news while recovering from my second cataract operation. I am full of admiration for the surgeon’s skill. Please excuse any typos; I still haven’t regained full stereoscopic vision.

In the last few years, I have mentioned climbing with my mate Mark on a ‘secret’ crag high in Mallerstang in the upper Eden Valley. I showed the odd photo but never gave the location away.

I only played a small supporting role in the development of this lovely crag but I enjoyed very much the exploratory nature of the climbing. The epic walk up to the crag. The peace and isolation of the fell. The views down into Mallerstang and distantly to many Pennine and Howgill Peaks. The occasional train trundling down the valley, even a low-flying Dakota or microlight passing by. We had a hidden cave where we could store gear and ropes to lessen the load on our walk-up.  Hammering in those belay stakes and then abseiling to clean those soaring cracks. One occasion, when a large block came careering towards me, dodged at the last moment. Freezing and baking in the same month. The best of company with Mark and Jude and other friends.

The Neb, Wild Boar Fell.

Our stash.

Main Wall area.

First ascent of

Flakey HVS 5a

Narrow Buttress. E1 5b

Upper Malerstang.

Well, he has now published his exploits on UKC under the title – Wild Boar Fell. There is also a new Fell and Rock mini guide to the Eden Valley due to be published which will include the routes on Wild Boar Fell. In the meantime, here is Mark’s interim guide https://bowlandclimber.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Wild-Boar-Fell-Both-sections-8.pdf

Just look at the opening photo. You would enjoy a day’s climbing up there.

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On a different scale up on Longridge Fell above CraigY is a secluded quarry, Crowshaw, which is much more accessible.

We have climbed in there for a few years now. Robin Mueller started the ball rolling with exciting boulder problems on the curiously shaped right wall.

There is a video of his exploits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2M1Oc3G-JQ&    https://youtu.be/f2M1Oc3G-JQ

I returned and cleaned up the slab right of his passages and then the lower walls to the left, which gave some easier boulder problems.

I had my eye on a 15ft rock tower, but there was a nasty pointed boulder below it. This was duly displaced with crowbars, Yes, I know we are mad. I played around bouldering out the start, but the committing harder moves were getting too far off the ground for me. I enlisted the help of Mark, of Wild Boar fame above, and he came over to belay me in September 2015. I was glad of the rope and protection on what turned out to be a decent climb – Tweeter And the Monkey Man, about VS 5a. We noticed the imposing blank wall to its right.  My musical  post describes the evening.

Tweeter, with that steep wall to its right.

My attention drifted back to the left walls again. That night both Mark and I had attempted a high level right to left traverse along the lip without success. Where the footholds ran out, it became technical and strenuous. I seem to remember I was going to France the next day, so didn’t want a broken ankle.

I couldn’t let it rest, so I was back in August 2016 with Dor as my spotter and protagonist. I needed that to progress and eventually  complete  the End of the Line. V2.    https://bowlandclimber.com/2016/08/27/its-the-end-of-the-line/

That steep wall still attracted me, but after putting a rope down it I realised it was way too hard. I did give the ‘Friend’ slots a clean, thinking somebody may lead it. That’s how it stayed for years, not many knew of the quarry or visited it. Local climber Paul of  https://crusherholds.co.uk/ has done everything at CraigY, so I thought I would show him my wall. He was impressed, but we never got around to trying it until this year when, with a new bouldering guide coming out, he bit the bullet.

Days of rain came and went; there was a short window in the weather for one afternoon. We met up and I rigged a top rope for him to look at the problem. Tenous moves off layback creases and minuscule footholds had him off the ground. The following moves past slopers were obviously the crux; he struggled with the sequence. Eventually, opting for a slap through past the worst hold. It all looked very insecure, and his success rate was only average. Once at the slot he said it was OK to the top. I suggested a roped lead with some gear at half height, but as he explained, that was past the difficulties, and he was confident of the upper section.

We moved the ropes, and I got set to spot him on the first difficult section.  That is when we realise that if he fell, we would both probably disappear down the steep, bramble slope below us. So I tied into the ropes and hung above the drop. The pads covered the base adequately. On came the tight edging shoes to cope with the ripples masquerading as footholds. The finger laybacks somehow kept him on until poised below the crux slaps. This time, his right hand didn’t connect well, and I could see his tendons straining to keep contact before the next slap. Only just made it. But then it was a triumphant romp to the top.    Probing the Proud Line 7a+

It rained for the rest of the month.

There remains a sneaky little line to be led if anybody fancies it before Probes has another look.