“I’m glad I brought my snorkel.” I whispered to myself as our wooden boat slowed near the white sandy shore of Once Isla’s Bisaya-Bisaya Island in Zamboanga City. The water, deep green with hints of cerulean, was clear as crystal. I can see all the way to its coral-ridden bottom—I wanted to jump right there and then. I tried to get my camera from my bag to take a photo, but was just too darn clumsy, our boat’s bow was already crunching down on the sand as I freed it from my bag.
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| ZAMBOANGA HERMOSA FESTIVAL |
Island hopping in Zamboanga City was the last thing on my mind when our plane landed on the city’s airport tarmac. We were here to witness the Zamboanga Hermosa Festival and eat—spell curacha and lechon. Yum! But yes, the city, indeed, has its share of white sandy paradise—well, pink to be more precise—with the nearby Zamboanga Santa Cruz Island. But really, that’s about it. Or so I thought.
UNDERSTAND ONCE ISLAS ZAMBOANGA
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| ONCE ISLAS IN ZAMBOANGA CITY |
Once Islas is actually still part of Zamboanga City. It’s location is shared by Barangay Panubigan and Dita, and is situated forty kilometers northeast of the city proper along the Moro Gulf. It took us about an hour by rented van to reach its jump off point in Panubigan.
Once Islas, translated from Chavacano, literally means eleven islands. These are Bisaya-Bisaya, Sirommon, Bauang-Bauang, Buh-Buh, Sallangan, Simaddang, Lambang-Lambang, Baguias, Kabugan, Panganak, and Lampinigan.
Most, if not all, of these islands have white sandy beaches. Some are small uninhabited islets, but a few have residents—I even saw a mosque on Buh-Buh Island.
NOW OPEN TO THE PUBLIC
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| ONCE ISLAS REOPENS TO TOURISTS |
2018 saw the opening of Zamboanga Once Islas to the public. It was off-limits the year before, after intrepid backpackers looking for new places to see in Zamboanga started to pour in. Caught unprepared from the influx of visitors, the local government decided to close down the islands until proper guidelines and preparation has been set for both the locals living there and visiting tourists.
Once Islas, was again closed off to tourism during the Covid19 Pandemic, but has since reopened its doors once the pandemic restrictions has been lifted.
However, as of this writing, only two of the eleven islands are open as island hopping destinations, Bisaya-Bisaya and Baung-Baung. Previously, Sirommon and Buh-Buh are also open for tourists. Plans on reopening them are currently in the works.
►EAT MORE: ZAMBOANGA STREET FOOD
GETTING THERE & BOOKING A TOUR
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| HOW TO GET TO ONCE ISLAS FROM ZAMBOANGA CITY |
It is possible to visit Zamboanga City’s Once Islas DIY. Pre-register at least a day in advance at the Zamboanga City Tourism Office along Paseo del Mar before heading to Barangay Panubigan.
• Check for an Once Islas tour slot, since they only allow 200 visitors a day, via onceislas@gmail.com or by calling the City Tourism Office +63 (62) 975-6341. Ask help from your hotel if you’re gonna call, since all they have is a landline.
• Once you get an available slot, the city tourism office will send you a booking acknowledgement via text or email to pay for entrance and environmental fees.
• You will then receive a confirmation slip once payment has been made, which you would need to present at the Once Islas registration area in Barangay Panubigan on your tour day.
To commute to Barangay Panubigan, board a Pagadian or Ipil-bound bus at the Zamboanga City bus terminal. Ask to be brought down at the Panubigan Crossing (₱50.00), then ride a van or habal-habal to the barangay hall [GPS MAP 7.1326561,122.2472173] (₱20.00). Travel time is about an hour.
Zamboanga Tourism Office: Paseo del Mar | +63 (62) 975-6341 | onceislas@gmail.com | asiaslatincitytourism@yahoo.com
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| A MOSQUE AT BUH BUH ISLAND IN ONCE ISLAS |
Us, we took the easier route and booked via one of the accredited tour agencies for Zamboanga Once Islas. They took care of our permits, entrance and environmental fees, boat rentals, local guides, hiking fees, and kayak and cottage rentals. Easy. This is also good if you want a shared tour.
I Travel Tourist Lane: +63 (995) 699-3274 | +63 (917) 722-6410 | +63 (917) 392-9474 | info@itraveltouristlane.com
ONCE ISLAS FEES
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| ONCE ISLAS FEES |
There are numerous fees to pay when visiting Once Islas. These are, of course, used in maintaining the islands and giving locals livelihood from tourism—in turn, making everything sustainable.
Entrance Fee: ₱100.00 per person
Environmental Fee: ₱100.00 per person
Cottage Fee: ₱150.00
Boat Rental Fee: ₱1,200.00 to ₱2,000.00 maximum of nine person
Guide Fee: ₱300.00 per group
Cottage Fee: ₱150.00 per day
Hiking Fee in Sirommon: ₱50.00 per person
Kayak Rental in Bisaya-Bisaya: ₱300.00 per hour, good for two persons
ONCE ISLAS RULES & GUIDELINES
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| TOURIST BOATS TO ONCE ISLAS |
Before actually riding a boat, we were briefed at the Panubigan Barangay Hall about the islands. What we can do—swim, kayak, snorkel, trek; and what we shouldn’t do—litter, smoke, and grill pork. Yes, pork. You can actually bring ready-to-eat pork meals, but you can’t and shouldn’t grill any pork, let alone roast an entire lechon, on the islands as respect to the Muslim Sama Banguingui community that lives there. Since Once Islas tourism is still on its early stages, paddle boarding and scuba diving are still prohibited, but they are planning to include these in the future.
As of now, only day tours are allowed from 7:00AM to 3:00PM, everyday except Fridays—which is a holy day for our Muslim brethren. Needless to say, overnight tours and camping are still not allowed in Once Islas. Visitors are limited up to two hundred persons per day only.
ONCE ISLAS TRAVEL TIPS
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| TRAVEL TIPS FOR THOSE GOING TO ONCE ISLAS |
• The best time to visit Once Islas is during the summer months of March to May, to fully appreciate its beauty.
• If you’re planning to visit Buh-Buh Island, be sure you have something to cover your skin, or dress conservatively, as there’s a Muslim community that resides there.
• Bring enough cash with you, there are no ATMs along the area of Once Islas.
• Bring a snorkel with you, Once Islas have good snorkeling areas.
• You may bring a change of clothes if you’re gonna swim, there are changing rooms available near the Barangay Panubigan jump off point.
WHERE TO EAT IN ONCE ISLAS
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| SEAFOOD BOODLE FIGHT LUNCH AT ONCE ISLAS ZAMBOANGA |
There are actually no food places, restaurants, or even eateries in Once Islas.
If you’re doing your tour DIY, you can bring your own food. Pork is allowed as long as you will not cook it onsite. Another option is by including food in your tour via the Zamboanga Tourism Office when you schedule your tour. You can also buy fresh seafood from local residents just before you ride the boat, you just have to add a ₱50.00 cooking fee.
If you’re taking a tour via accredited tour agencies like iTravel Tourist Lane, there’s no need to bring food. They will provide more than enough food and drinks for lunch. Besides lunch, snacks are also provided for, like steamed corn and fresh buko juice.
ONCE ISLAS, THE ISLANDS
Here’s what to expect on the islands that are open for tourists to explore for the Once Islas island hopping tour. Upon first glance, the islands seem to be similar to each other, but upon spending time on each one, I soon discovered that each island has unique characteristics—some has hiking activities, one has a natural tidal pool, another has rock formations, viewing decks, snorkeling areas, sandbars, and so on.
BISAYA-BISAYA ISLAND
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| BISAYA BISAYA ISLAND’S MAIN BEACH |
From the Panubigan Barangay Hall, we walked for a few minutes to the Panubigan Ferry Terminal, the jump off for Once Islas island hopping adventure in Zamboanga City. And we didn’t have to wait long before the first and southernmost island on our itinerary appeared on the horizon.
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| BISAYA-BISAYA IS ACTUALLY THE NAME OF A BEACH IN VISA ISLAND |
Passing four other islets, Bisaya-Bisaya Island’s white beach shone bright against the emerald waters that surround it. A colorful vinta sail, thrust right on the beach, flapped against the sea breeze as we jumped from our boat. Coconut trees swayed, bordering the beach, with a couple of open huts sheltered right below. On foot, we circled parts of the island, jumping over sharp rocks to marvel at the wind-carved rock formations on the eastern part of Bisaya-Bisaya. Formally named Visa Island, it got its moniker after Visayan fishermen who used to frequent its waters.
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| A QUICK HIKE AROUND BISAYA-BISAYA ISLAND TO SEE ITS ROCK FORMATIONS |
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| SNORKELING AND KAYAKING AT BISAYA-BISAYA ISLAND |
Back on the beach, a serving of fresh coconuts and steamed corn cobs awaited us. I took a sip and one quick bite before running towards the sea, my snorkel in tow. Warm waters soon enveloped me, the bed transforming from white sand to a profusion of corals. Colorful fishes gawked at me before swimming away until I reached a sea wall that dropped to nothingness.
BISAYA BISAYA ISLET TIDAL POOL
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| A NATURAL TIDAL POOL ON ONE OF THE THREE ISLETS OF BISAYA-BISAYA |
Before going, we crossed a tidal flats to access one of the two satellite islets of Bisaya-Bisaya. We’re checking out its natural tidal pool. A dip and a flatlay drone shot was definitely in order.
The tidal pool sits right to a rocky drop on the islet and has a depth of about two to three feet. We spent about fifteen minutes here before moving to our next destination.
SIROMMON ISLAND (SIRUMON)
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| SIRUMON ISLAND OR SIROMMON ISLAND, DEPENDS ON WHO YOU ASK |
Sailing northwards, our boats traversed the waters of Buh-Buh Island (where we saw a mosque right on Buh-Buh Beach), Bugias Island, and Kablingan Island. We then landed on one of the northernmost island in the group, Panganaban Island, more popularly known as Sirommon Island.
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| WILL HIKE FOR FOOD |
I was readying to don my snorkel when we were told we need to hike across the island for lunch. In my equation, lunch is greater than snorkeling, so hike it was. The trail was fairly easy and took about ten minutes. A spread of seafood boodle fest awaited us at the eastern beach of Sirumon Island, the Playa de Isabelle.
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| LUNCH PROVIDED BY KAMRIYA’S CUISINE AND PREPARED BY THE SAMA BANGUINGI COMMUNITY |
I was told that the underwater life at this side of the island is even better than at Bisaya-Bisaya but the tide was too low for us to board a raft that can take us right on its sweet spot. Too bad, but not really, we have a seafood feast waiting for us!
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| THE SANDBAR AT SIROMMON ISLAND |
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| LOADS OF STARFISHES ALONG THE BEACH |
With blackened hands from all the squid we ate, we trekked back to the Sirumon’s main beach to check out its starfish-littered sandbar, which sort of reminded me of Kalanggaman Island in Leyte. We were all quite surprised at how warm—like almost uncomfortably warm—the water was! The area is also good for snorkeling, but the tide was just too low that swimming would us have tangling with corals.
BAUANG-BAUANG ISLAND
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| BAUANG-BAUANG ISLAND OR BAONG ISLAND |
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| BISAYA-BISAYA ISLANDS AS SEEN FROM THE SHORE OF BAUANG-BAUANG ISLAND |
Time flies when you alternate between swimming and eating. We have less than an hour left when we reached Bauang-Bauang Island, our last stop for the day. Officially named Baong Island, its claim to fame is its viewing deck which can be reached by hiking 248 steps up. I did reach my quota for hiking that day, so while my compadres went up the hill, I went and dove down its water—which was a pleasure to swim on. Just the right temperature with nada a current.
2023 ISLAND HOPPING UPDATE
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| BAUANG-BAUANG ISLAND WAS OUR FIRST STOP FOR THE TOUR |
On our latest Once Islas island hopping tour, Bauang-Bauang Island became our first stop for the tour. Staying there for about an hour—enjoying the beach while having fresh buko juice and corn cobs provided by the tour. For hikers, the trail leading up to the viewing deck is still accessible to tourists.
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| THEN IT WAS OFF TO THE NATURAL TIDAL POOL AT BISAYA-BISAYA ISLET |
The second stop was Bisaya-Bisaya Islet’s Tidal Pool. Unlike the previous tour we had, we were unable to walk across from the main island to this islet, since the tide is on the high side. If it was low tide, we could’ve easily walked here.
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| OUR FINAL STOP WAS THE MAIN BISAYA-BISAYA ISLAND |
Bisaya-Bisaya Island, the main one, was the final stop for the tour. A sumptuous seafood lunch, provided by iTravel Tourist Lane, was held here instead at Sirommon Island since it was still closed for tours due to the Pandemic. I actually prefer this since there was no need to hike a small hill to access the lunch place like we did before. Instead, lunch was in a hut right by the beach. And after filling ourselves full with seafood, the sea was just a hop away for a relaxing dip.
Our group stayed here until two in the afternoon—since tours are only allowed until three.
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| OUR TODDLER ON ONE OF THE SMALLER TIDAL POOL IN ONCE ISLAS |
We brought our three-year old toddler with us on this Once Islas island hopping tour, and I can say that this tour is very kid-friendly. The ride from Zamboanga City center to Barangay Panubigan was very smooth, and so were the inter-island boat rides. There were hardly any current or waves along the beaches we visited, and the seabed incline was quite gradual.
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| HIKING ALONG THE ROCK FORMATIONS OF ONCE ISLAS |
The only areas you need to be careful with your kids are at the natural tidal pool in Bisaya-Bisaya Islet, due to the steep drop along the edges of the islet and a few sharp rocks and shells along the tidal pool; and the rock formation area hike on the main Bisaya-Bisaya Island, again due to the steep drop along its edge. Other than those, your kid can roam freely.
ONCE ISLAS MAP
ZAMBOANGA ONCE ISLAS TRIP ITINERARY
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| SAMPLE ITINERARY FOR ONCE ISLAS ZAMBOANGA |
07:00AM • Depart Zamboanga City
08:00AM • Arrive at Barangay Panubigan, start orientation
08:15AM • Start Once Islas island hopping tour
08:30AM • Arrive Bauang-Bauang Island
• Hike to viewing deck
• Lounge at the beach
• Swim
10:00AM • Arrive Bisaya-Bisaya Islet Tidal Pool
• Dip at the tidal pool
10:30AM • Arrive Bisaya-Bisaya Island
• Hike around the rock formations
• Swim
• Snorkel
12:00PM • Lunch
• Kayak
02:00PM • Depart to Barangay Panubigan
03:00PM • Change clothes, depart to Zamboanga City
iTravel Tourist Lane Zamboanga Tours
Address: Mayor Jaldon St., Canelar, Zamboanga City
Contact Number: (0917) 724-3199
Email: info@itraveltouristlane.com
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